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The artificial island of KoKred lies cuddled
between two bends of the Chao Phyra River at a
point where the river wends to its narrowest. It
is a counterfeit stricture, as this straight and
narrow channel was cut to speed the journey of
river traffic as it plied between Ayutthaya and
the Gulf of Thailand.
This 10 kilometer square island is a delight.
There are no cars , and
the roads are narrow concrete strips splayed
out around the island. The only traffic is an
occasional motorbike or bicycle. What bliss, a
stone's thrown from Bangkok, a city that is being
strangled by the motor vehicle!
As you step off the ferry that has brought you
across the river from Pakkred in a brief minute or
two, you step back into a Thailand of 50 years
ago. This island is home to a community of Mon
people who came here from their homeland in the
river Kwai valley north of Kanchanaburi . The
temples and Buddha shrines scattered around the
island are visible evidence of this neo-Burmese
heritage.
The island is the site of a pottery industry.
The rich clay soil provides an ideal medium for
the red terracotta earthenware pots and water
containers that were the mainstay of this economy.
Sadly, others elsewhere, produce alternatives at a
cheaper price and brick kilns have outlived their
usefulness. Now the potters have turned their
attention to the tourists who visit the island,
usually on a Sunday in one of the large tour boats
that sail up river from Taksin Bridge. However,
the rich soil also supports a verdant landscape of
palms, and fruit trees giving the place a
wonderfully tranquil and rural feel. As a visitor
you can walk around the island, hire a bicycle or
zip quickly by on one of several motor cycle
taxis. It's quite a long walk, just over 5
kilometers, but a wonderful one at that! The path
takes you under plantain tress with bunches of
bananas overhanging the walk way and down below
limes, papayas, pomeloes and all sorts of fruit I
cannot identify grow in profusion.
For the really discerning travellers, there are
rooms available to rent a very reasonable Bt 200
per night. The KoKred Restaurant has a verandah
that juts out over the river. It is an ideal venue
to eat or just sit, sip a drink and watch the sand
barges and other water traffic as they glide by.
You don't need to take the big cruise boats,
chock full of tourists. Instead make you way to
Victory Monument on the BTS. This missile like
structure, which commemorates the Indo-Chinese War
of 1940-41, serves as transport hub for Bangkok.
Walk along the arterial skyway, and below you will
see a sea of bus stands. Go as far as you can,
descend and then wait for a 166 Bus. This will
take you to Pakkred by motorway, thus avoiding the
worst of the traffic jams. On reaching Pakkred,
which is the terminus. You alight obliquely
opposite the TMB bank, walk straight ahead until
you encounter the motorcycle taxi-rank situated at
the rear entrance of Jusco. Mumble something about
KoKred and the driver will take you to the ferry
stage at Wat Sana Nua. Enjoy the trip!
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